Wash taro leaves, removing stems and thick veins. Boil 3 cups of water with salt and baking soda. Add the leaves to the boiling water and reduce heat. Simmer, partially covered, for 40 minutes to an hour. Drain, rinse and squeeze out liquid. Sauté onions and calamari or chicken in butter until the onions are translucent (cook a bit longer for chicken than calamari). Add the coconut milk, cooked taro leaves, salt, and sugar. Simmer for 30 minutes.